Day 5 - A Love Song to Food

We got off the ship at Costa Maya and headed into Mahahual (Ma-ha-WAHL). We had booked a trip through a local company to explore the Mayan ruins.

It was a hot and humid walk, but there were iguanas and plants everywhere. Also every ten steps we were offered a tour or a taxi or a scooter rental. The residents were pretty content to back off when we said we already had plans, though, so it wasn't too stressful. One even pointed the way to our destination!

We found the tour company, they gave us water, and loaded us on an air-conditioned bus. Libby's hair was bothering her, so Michael put it in braids for her.

While heading 60 miles out of town with our new friends Diego and Cándido, I realized this is probably how tourists get kidnapped. As Cándido drove and Diego explained the history of where we were going, I realized we would be okay. Even if Diego kidnapped us, I believed we would be well fed. We learned as much about the native food as we did the history. He was really passionate about food.

We passed several of these cemeteries on our way to the ruins. The plots were decorated, painted, and well-loved. The cemeteries are so different than what I am used to seeing. I regret we didn't have a chance to learn more about them.

After an hour of driving we made it to Chacchoben (ask Michael how to pronounce it, I'm still struggling). (Editor's note: Chock-CHO-ben)

We learned these temples were aligned with the sun to serve as calendars. They also served as the center for Mayan civilizations and the plazas (not the temples, a common misconception) hosted the occasional human sacrifice, when the priest deemed it necessary.

I couldn't get over all the plants. These plants are carefully and tenderly spoiled on my sunny window sill at home. Here they are growing wild and profuse. It blew my mind.

Michael was interested in this tree and asked our driver, "¿Que es esto?", trying to learn what sort of tree this was. What Michael didn't stop to consider is that if he asked the question in Spanish, he would likely be answered in Spanish. He was given a very thorough explanation, in Spanish, of what this pictures. Alas, Michael didn't understand a word, and we still don't know what tree this is. (Editor's note: "corozo," small coconuts)

After we were given a tour of the ruins, we were taken to the village of Chacchoben, which is a small town populated with the descendants of Mayans, to eat lunch. It is also the namesake of the ruins because it was the residents of this village who guided the modern discoverer to the them. Many of the homes were poor by American standards, but the majority of them were brightly painted and well-cared for. I was in love.

 This is the entrance to the home where we ate lunch.

Diego treated us to a tour of the yard and plants (with special emphasis on food) and then we were served a lovely lunch, made by four lovely ladies of the town.

We ate tamales wrapped in banana leaves, chicken with achiote, plantains, chayote, rice, beans, a ground pumpkin seed sauce called sikil pak, and flan. It was the best meal we ate the entire trip.

They even taught us how to shape our own tortillas. I was very proud when the woman fixing everyone's tortillas (it was sorely needed), looked at mine and said "Good job, lady". I was the only one in our tour group to get such high praise. She still fixed my tortilla a little, though, before it was cooked on a hot pan.

After our lovely lunch we headed back to the cruise ship. Michael asked Diego if we would be able to try an apple banana, since he had spoken so highly of them and there weren't any served with lunch. Others in our group expressed a similar desire, coupled with a desire for fresh pineapple and mango. Despite being on a tight schedule, we made a short detour to Pineapple Town, a street lined with fruit stands. Since we were running late, Diego asked everyone to stay in the van, and he placed our orders. Our family bought two bags of pineapple (basically an entire pineapple freshly cut and ready to eat per bag), a bag of mango (served same as pineapple), a huge piece of pan de maiz (corn bread), and a large bunch of apple-bananas. It cost us a total of seven dollars and was mind-blowingly delicious. The bananas were tiny, creamy, and just a bit tangy. They can't be exported because they have to be eaten very soon after picking. My mouth is watering just thinking about them. 

After our brief stop, we headed directly for the port. Our guides wanted to make sure none of us missed our ship. We made it on board thirty minutes before the ship departed. 

We took a quick picture of the port as we stepped back to the ship. This single day made the entire cruise worthwhile for me. It was amazing.

We fell into our clean beds, content and well-fed.

Unexpected expenses:

• $80 Michael's prescription sunglasses which he left on the bus.
• Total: $80 + 894 = $974